Last week we attended the BTBA (bespoke tailors benevolent association) first festival dinner, a charity that is designed to look after those in the trade who fall on hard times. Geoff Wheeler, head cloth rep for English cloth house Dugdale Bros invited us to dine with them along with Steve Willis ( former cloth designer for domeuil and now head of cloth house YTC ), Alan McGurrell ( now retired tailor formally based in Stafford St. ), Richard and Paul of Choppin & Lodge, permanent style’s Simon Crompton and lucky enough for us The Rake magazines photographer Luke Carby ( thanks for the pics!! ). It was held in the merchant tailor’s hall, an amazing building located just off of thread needle street in the city of London. A A Gill was our guest speaker and he kept us all well entertained with his witty humour and funny stories of when he himself worked in menswear.
Made in holland & sherry’s Sherry tweed with the edges in fawn flannel this is what we can only describe as a cardigan jacket. It was based off of a vintage item of clothing that a member of the client’s family has had in there wardrobe for years and after searching high and low for something similar decided to replicate it. The plus side to making something from scratch is that you can eliminate the bits that you wasn’t so keen on and add bits that you feel improve it, also selecting a colour cloth that you know will work better with other bits of clothing in the wardrobe insures that you will be able to wear it more often. The cloth itself is very similar to Harris tweed and has that raw, natural unfinished feel, but unlike most Harris tweed bunches has a lot more unusual designs. Including this blue and grey large houndstooth they have colourful gun club checks, herringbones and donegal tweeds.
We will be visiting New York on 15th & 16th February, Richard will be taking appointments for Friday at Gladson’s showroom which is located in the crown building on the crossroads of fashion, 57th street and 5th avenue, he will also be taking hotel appointments for Saturday. To book an appointment please email us at firstname.lastname@example.org
As promised in our previous post, here is the Cerriti baby cashmere made up. We were not surprised that for a cashmere it actually drapes really well as we could feel the substance in the cloth as mentioned previously. This grey prince of Wales with a salmon coloured over check has been made as a single breasted button 2 with slanted pockets and a very soft shoulder pad and minimal sleeve head.
Occasionally when we get an enquire for a suit we are ask the question “do your suits have hand buttonholes?” but surprisingly we don’t get asked the kind of quality. Hand buttonholes do look a lot cleaner and are more pleasing to the eye then machine buttonholes when they are done nicely, we have seen some over the years that are done on the heavy side that gives the buttonhole a short stumpy appearance which personally we think don’t look good. So here are some snaps of Katja sewing her buttonholes in a navy fox flannel pin stripe.
Mainly associated as a fashion house that has made their name from sportswear, leather goods and fragrances most are not aware that they also weave and design their own fabrics for the Italian market and have done so for years. Based in paris but woven in Biella, northern Italy, Cerruti have been very popular with tailors in Italy and France for years but not having a cloth rep in the UK has meant that we have never had the opportunity to see these cloths let alone make them. Last year Huddersfield based cloth house Dugdales agreed to rep for Cerruti and place their bunches in a few of London’s selected tailors. As you open the bunch your greeted by baby cashmere jacketing’s that is the softest cloth I think I’ve ever felt, but you can feel the substance is there, it’s not flimsy, there is a really good weight to it. The designs and colours are also amazing and knowing that it obviously wouldn’t be cheap bunching pure baby cashmere they haven’t played it safe, the creamy grey prince of Wales with a rusty orange overcheck is really striking. The bunch continues into lighter weight super 150’s suiting’s and again have some really interesting designs and colours which do cover all bases. As you can imagine the baby cashmere is one of the most expensive if not the most expensive cloth we carry in the shop but having only had the bunch for a short amount of time have already had some customers commission some jackets and we are looking forward to finishing them off and hopefully can get some pics posted on the blog.
Neopolitan style tailoring seems to be getting more and more popular by the day, with a lot of orders we took over our sale period to be constructed this way. We have always been happy to experiment and have be constructing jackets in the style of those in Naples for a while now and even had a really nice compliment from the head of an Italian cloth house when they came to visit at the end of last year. All though our jackets are made in London and not Naples, two of our tailors are Italian and are familiar with soft Neapolitan tailoring. The cut is also a lot different to a traditional English style jacket, especially around the chest and shoulder area, getting the correct shape for the top sleeve to fit correctly in a shallower armhole with the correct amount of fullness in the right areas is also key. When worn the shoulder of the jacket is quite similar to a cardigan where it follows the shoulder line naturally and as it has less construction it needs to have less chest which means again its sitting very close. In all the Neopolitan jacket is an outline of yourself and doesn’t suit everybody, but the people it does suit I think looks fantastic.
Originally designed for shooting and later used for other sports including golf, the Norfolk jacket was the fashionable sport attire of its time. There are different variations of a Norfolk jacket now, some with a full belt, some with half, box pleats front and back and an action back is also an option. Here are a few Norfolk jackets going through at the moment, one still has buttons to go on but these two show the different options available. One has the box pleat down the front only with a full belt, bellows patch pockets and gauntlet cuffs. The second in the permanent style tweed has no box pleats but an inverted pleat in place of a centre vent to keep the breeze out, an action back to improve movement and bellows patch pockets with inverted pleats so the style is in keeping with the back.
After visiting W Bill today we can now add their Jacketing material to our sale. Amazingly it’s the first time I’ve ever been to their premises in Sackville Street ( just off Savile Row ) and it’s like Aladdin’s cave, there is floor to ceiling rows of cloth, some that has never even featured in their bunches and maybe when we have more time will try a dig out some lighter weight cashmere jacketing’s to keep in the shop. The cloth we have for the sale, like the H Lesser lengths are vintage lengths that featured in W Bill bunches over the last 15 years in various textures and weights. Sale price for sports jackets in W Bill are £650.00.