Mainly associated as a fashion house that has made their name from sportswear, leather goods and fragrances most are not aware that they also weave and design their own fabrics for the Italian market and have done so for years. Based in paris but woven in Biella, northern Italy, Cerruti have been very popular with tailors in Italy and France for years but not having a cloth rep in the UK has meant that we have never had the opportunity to see these cloths let alone make them. Last year Huddersfield based cloth house Dugdales agreed to rep for Cerruti and place their bunches in a few of London’s selected tailors. As you open the bunch your greeted by baby cashmere jacketing’s that is the softest cloth I think I’ve ever felt, but you can feel the substance is there, it’s not flimsy, there is a really good weight to it. The designs and colours are also amazing and knowing that it obviously wouldn’t be cheap bunching pure baby cashmere they haven’t played it safe, the creamy grey prince of Wales with a rusty orange overcheck is really striking. The bunch continues into lighter weight super 150’s suiting’s and again have some really interesting designs and colours which do cover all bases. As you can imagine the baby cashmere is one of the most expensive if not the most expensive cloth we carry in the shop but having only had the bunch for a short amount of time have already had some customers commission some jackets and we are looking forward to finishing them off and hopefully can get some pics posted on the blog.
Neopolitan style tailoring seems to be getting more and more popular by the day, with a lot of orders we took over our sale period to be constructed this way. We have always been happy to experiment and have be constructing jackets in the style of those in Naples for a while now and even had a really nice compliment from the head of an Italian cloth house when they came to visit at the end of last year. All though our jackets are made in London and not Naples, two of our tailors are Italian and are familiar with soft Neapolitan tailoring. The cut is also a lot different to a traditional English style jacket, especially around the chest and shoulder area, getting the correct shape for the top sleeve to fit correctly in a shallower armhole with the correct amount of fullness in the right areas is also key. When worn the shoulder of the jacket is quite similar to a cardigan where it follows the shoulder line naturally and as it has less construction it needs to have less chest which means again its sitting very close. In all the Neopolitan jacket is an outline of yourself and doesn’t suit everybody, but the people it does suit I think looks fantastic.