Monthly Archives: August 2012

Soft Tailoring with Caccioppoli

Not having a house style as such at Graham Browne means we are more open to suggestion and willing to experiment. Neapolitan tailoring Is the most popular request, The body canvas is much softer then in a standard suit jacket and has no chest canvas or chest felt at all, the shoulder pads and sleeve head are replaced with a thin ply of felt and the width reduced so the shoulder starts earlier into the top of the sleeve and takes a more natural curve, pressing the seams open keeps it flush. The result is a much more lighter feel, more like a cardigan and works well casually with jeans. Patch pockets and quarter inch hand swelled seam finishes the look. The cloth we used was Caccioppoli, a cloth house based in Napoli with cashmere blends in all types of colours and weaves from Donegal to herringbone which is perfect for Neapolitan tailoring.

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Double breasted resurgence

Double breasted suits have been in the shadows of single breasted for long while now but over the last few years they are being ordered more and more frequently, Even double breasted casual jackets are being ordered to wear with jeans etc which is really showing the resurgence of double breasted. This is a jacket from a suit in 10oz ultra fine Marino flannel from Smith Woollens, The cloth holds its shape really well but isn’t super heavy so Is fine wearing in summer conditions as the jackets are always mostly buttoned. The cut is really fitted and has a nice shape without bring to snug that the button pulls across the front which double breasted’s have a habit of doing, A 2 hole dark brown horn button works well against the grey and ties in well when worn with brown shoes.

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